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我刊编辑访i-D杂志创办人Terry Jones  

2006-05-21 21:17:51|  分类: 默认分类 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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与i-D杂志创办人Terry Jones交谈

以体现街头时尚文化在圈内深富影响的英国时尚设计杂志i-D今年庆祝创刊25周年,其纪念展的其中一站是五月的北京798工厂内长征空间。开幕式上,我们与i-D杂志创办人Terry Jones做了一席谈:

乐:伦敦人现在对中国当下的时尚和文化有什么样的认识?

Terry Jones: 从i-D杂志的角度来说听到关于商业的很多信息,但是缺少对话,我对于对话更感兴趣,我在寻找一种长期的想法上的交流。

乐:你认为你会在这里办i-D杂志吗?

TJ: 我想i-D杂志是一个手工化的,货真价实的东西,需要小心。所以不管我们在哪办,我们必须保持原味,原味是从从全球各地找到原味的东西,我对国界并不感兴趣,而只是对人感兴趣。所以我想追随i-D的创意群体是全球性的。

乐:i-D杂志25年来是如何变化的?

TJ: 有意思的是阅读人群是如何变化的,今天,我会发现一个14岁的男孩对我们有兴趣,但也会发现一个80岁的老人对我们也有兴趣。我们开始杂志的时候,创意圈把i-D视为一种大脑食物,虽然杂志成长很快但是是自然地成长。在中国我也很惊奇地发现有那么多人知道这本杂志,我们的发行商根本没有往中国送过杂志。

乐: 你曾经在杂志中禁止刊登某些内容吗?

TJ: i-D杂志视人为人。不管你的信条,宗教,性行为是什么。我确实在我们的恐怖专辑中取消过一个图像,我的确觉得它走得太远了,图像中一个女孩的脑袋上插了一把刀。

乐: 你对中国的原创性潜力怎么看?

TJ: 我必须说我在欧洲的艺术展和双年展中看到的最有意思的艺术作品来自中国…但是我也在想当你提到原创性的时候,首先,你想,到底什么是原创?

i-D magazine纪念展,5月19日-31日,北京798工厂长征空间

(中文不完全是英文原文)

In conversation with…

i-D magazine founder Terry Jones, who came to Beijing last month for the opening of Diesel’s  exhibition at New Long March Space,

TO: How do you think London views China at the moment, not necessarily from a political point of view, but more in terms of fashion and culture?

Terry Jones: From i-D’s point of view, I’ve come to learn and find out about the people. Generally we’re hearing about commerce and we’re not exchanging communication, and I’m interested in exchanging communication. I’m looking for a long-term exchange of ideas.

TO: Do you think you might start an i-D over here?

TJ: Well, I think that i-D is like a Bristol car. It’s authentic, hand-made…it has to be handled with care. So that wherever we go, it has to stay authentic and original which means that the original can find material that comes from around the world. I’m not really interested in nationalities or borderlines. To me, I’m just interested in people. So I think the creative community that follow i-d are global.

TO: So how has the magazine changed over the past 25 years?

TJ: What’s interesting is how the demographic have changed. Today, I’ll find a 14-year-old kid who’s interested i-D but I’ll find someone who’s 80 who’s interested too. When we started the magazine our readership was predominantly people who would go shopping on the King’s Road [in London] because we weren’t allowed to sell on the newsstands. Everyone in the creative world viewed i-D as a kind of brain food. The magazine grew rapidly but somehow it grew organically. I think that China will be part of that organic growth if allowed to come in. I’m amazed actually how many people know about i-D here since our distributors don’t send it to China.

TO: Actually, you can find i-D here, at the Timezone 8 bookshop.

TJ: It arrives through alternative distribution, which is something of a mystery.

TO: Have you ever censored content from i-D?

TJ: i-D treats people as people. Whatever your creed, whatever your religion, whatever your sexual practices. I did censor one image in our horror issue for its sexual deviancy because I think it went a little too far and I felt that it was better to put a control sticker on it. We also took out one photo which had a child in the image and we ran it without the child in the image, a girl with a knife through her head.

TO: Right.

TJ: What’s interesting is that I took it out because two people working for us at the time were young mothers and they found that more upsetting than Terry Richardson’s assistant having fellatio with a severed head, which I thought was much more sensitive (laughs).

TO: How do you see China in terms of originality?

TJ: I must say that the most interesting art that I’ve seen come out of anywhere has been China, based on work that I’ve seen recently in Europe at art shows and biennales…but I also think that when you talk about originality, you know, like, what is original?

(Stacey Duff)

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